Steps To Remove Old Wallpaper Cleanly

Removing old wallpaper ranks high on the list of home improvement tasks that look deceptively simple until you’re three hours in, covered in wet paper scraps, and simply fed up with the job. However, wallpaper removal can still range from super-easy to brutal-hard, depending on the original installation and the wallpaper used.

Some come off in satisfying full sheets, while other types seem to have been applied with industrial-strength cement. The difference between a manageable project and a nightmare often comes down to technique and patience.

Here’s some must-have tips to help you remove old wallpaper cleanly and save your sanity.

Test a small section first

Before you commit to a full room, pick an unnoticed corner and try removing a small section of wallpaper. Doing this test will reveal what you’re dealing with, whether the paper comes off easily, if there are multiple layers, and how well the adhesive was applied.

Some wallpaper practically falls off the wall, while other types require serious elbow grease. The test section also tells you whether you’ll need chemical strippers, a steamer, or just water and a scraper.

Clear and protect the room

Move all furniture out of the room if possible, or push it to the center and cover it with plastic sheeting. Wallpaper removal creates a surprising amount of mess, wet paper scraps, dripping water, and adhesive residue end up everywhere.

Lay drop cloths or plastic sheeting on the floor and tape it along the baseboards. Turn off electricity to the room at the breaker box since you’ll be working with water near outlets and switches, then cover those with plastic and tape.

Score the wallpaper surface

A wallpaper scoring tool creates small perforations that allow the removal solution to penetrate behind the paper and loosen the adhesive. Roll the tool over the entire wall surface using moderate pressure, enough to puncture the paper but not so much that you gouge the drywall underneath.

Scoring the wallpaper surface is important for vinyl or coated wallpapers that repel water. The tiny spaces allow moisture to reach the paste layer, which dramatically speeds up the removal process.

Mix your removal solution

You can buy commercial wallpaper remover or make your own solution using equal parts white vinegar and hot water, or use fabric softener diluted with water. Hot water alone works for some wallpapers, but adding a removal agent helps break down stubborn adhesive.

Mix the solution in a pump sprayer or a bucket if you’re using sponges. The solution should be quite warm but not so hot that you can’t comfortably handle it, heat helps activate the paste-dissolving properties.

Apply solution generously to one section

Work in manageable sections about 3 to 4 feet wide rather than trying to wet the entire room at once. Spray or sponge the solution onto the scored wallpaper until it’s thoroughly saturated.

The paper should be visibly wet and starting to darken from moisture absorption. Don’t be stingy with the solution; the goal is to get enough liquid behind the paper to soften the old paste.

Gravity works in your favor here, so a solution applied at the top will naturally run down and help loosen lower sections.

Let the solution soak and penetrate

Patience during this step pays off significantly. Let the solution sit on the wall for at least 15 to 20 minutes so it can work its way through the perforations and soften the adhesive.

Some wallpapers need even longer; you’ll know it’s ready when the paper starts to bubble or pull away from the wall on its own. If the paper dries out before you’re ready to scrape, apply more solution.

During this waiting period, you can use the time to prepare the next section.

Start scraping at the seams

Use a wide putty knife or wallpaper scraper and start at a seam or corner where the paper is already lifting. Hold the scraper at a low angle, almost parallel to the wall, to avoid gouging the surface underneath.

Work the blade under the paper and push upward or outward, letting the tool do the work rather than forcing it. If you meet resistance, stop and apply more solutions rather than scraping harder.

The best removal happens when the paper almost slides off by itself.

Remove the wallpaper in strips

When properly soaked, wallpaper often comes off in long, satisfying strips. Pull slowly and steadily at a shallow angle back toward the wall rather than straight out, which helps prevent tearing.

If the paper tears, simply start again at another seam or lifted edge. The backing paper might stay on the wall even after the decorative top layer comes off; that’s normal with many wallpapers.

You’ll deal with the backing layer in the same way, with additional solution and scraping.

Use a steamer for stubborn areas

Wallpaper steamers are worth renting if you’re dealing with old, multiple layers, or particularly stubborn adhesive. Hold the steamer pad against the wall for 30 seconds to a minute until the paper softens, then scrape while the area is still hot.

Steamers are especially effective on plaster walls where you need to be gentle. The heat penetrates through the paper and melts the old paste without the mess of liquid solutions.

Work in small sections and wear gloves since the steam and wet paper get quite hot.

Address remaining backing paper

Once the top decorative layer is gone, you’ll likely have backing paper or a fuzzy paper residue still stuck to the wall. Treat this the same way you did the top layer: score it lightly if needed, apply removal solution, let it soak, and scrape.

Backing paper sometimes comes off more easily than the top layer because it’s thinner and more porous. Other times it’s been glued directly to drywall and requires extra patience and solution applications.

Remove adhesive residue

After all visible paper is gone, you’ll probably have adhesive residue left on the walls. Mix a fresh batch of removal solution or use straight hot water with a little dish soap.

Wash the walls with a sponge, working in circular motions to dissolve remaining paste. The walls should feel smooth when you run your hand over them, not sticky or gummy.

This step might require several passes, and you’ll go through quite a few buckets of rinse water.

Rinse the walls thoroughly

Once the adhesive is gone, rinse the entire wall surface with clean warm water to remove all traces of the removal solution and dissolved paste. Any residue left behind can interfere with paint or new wallpaper adhesion later.

Use a clean sponge and change the rinse water frequently; you’ll be surprised how much murky residue comes off even after the walls look clean. Pay special attention to corners and along trim where solution and paste tend to accumulate.

Repair any wall damage

Scraping inevitably causes some damage, even when you’re careful. Small gouges, scratches, or areas where the paper backing took some drywall surface with it need to be repaired.

Use spackling compound or joint compound to fill any imperfections, let it dry completely, then sand smooth with fine-grit sandpaper. For larger damaged areas, you might need to apply mesh tape and multiple coats of joint compound.

Getting the walls smooth now saves headaches during painting or installing new wallpaper.

Sand and smooth the surface

After repairs are complete and dry, sand the entire wall lightly with 120-grit sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots or ridges left from scraping. Smoothing the surface also helps create a uniform texture.

Sanding generates a lot of dust, so wear a dust mask and consider using a vacuum with a brush attachment as you go. The goal is walls that feel consistently smooth to the touch, with no bumps or rough patches that will show through paint.

Prime the walls before finishing

Never skip priming after wallpaper removal, even if the walls look perfect. Primer seals the wall surface, covers any remaining adhesive residue you might have missed, and creates a uniform base for paint or new wallpaper.

Use a stain-blocking primer if there are any water stains or if you’re covering dark or heavily patterned wallpaper residue. The primer coat also reveals any imperfections you missed during repairs, giving you a chance to fix them before the final finish goes on.

Go from dated patterns to fresh starts

Wallpaper removal is one of those projects where preparation and the right technique make all the difference. If you start the process unprepared, it can possibly become a weekend task or a month-long process.

Some homeowners find that the walls that stood underneath the wallpaper are surprisingly great and worth the exposure. Either way, once the old paper is gone and the surface is properly prepared, you’ve got a blank canvas ready for whatever comes next.

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